How to Reupholster an Ottoman: A DIY Beginner's Guide

Yes, a beginner can reupholster an ottoman. Plan your cuts, measure twice, and follow a controlled sequence with a staple gun, fresh foam or batting, and properly cut fabric. Most standard ottomans take a few hours to a full weekend depending on complexity, and materials typically run a moderate amount for a mid-size project. The first decision is which method fits your ottoman’s condition:

Recover over existing fabric: fastest option, works when the frame and foam are still firm, adds minimal bulk
Full reupholstery: strip to the frame, replace foam and batting, cut and staple new fabric, best for worn or sagging pieces
No-sew staple-only recovery: a quick cosmetic refresh using only a heavy-duty staple gun, no sewing required

Sources like This Old House, Architectural Digest, and Weloveupholstery each document these approaches in detail. Before anything else, measure your ottoman’s top diameter or dimensions, side height, and note whether it has storage hardware, tufting, or decorative feet. That information determines your fabric yardage, your method, and how much time to block off.

Key Takeaways

Reupholstering an ottoman is a realistic DIY project for a beginner: choose the right method for your ottoman’s condition, gather materials before you start, and follow a compass-point stapling sequence to keep fabric tension even throughout.

Point	Details
Choose your method first	Inspect foam and frame before buying anything; full reupholstery outlasts a simple recover by years.
Radial relief cuts are non-negotiable for round ottomans	Small snips between staples prevent horizontal rippling on curved sides.
Use old fabric as templates	Press and trace the original pieces onto new fabric for accurate fit and pattern alignment.
Tufting needs a planned grid	Mark button points from the center outward and secure thread with a zigzag staple pattern on the underside.
Weloveupholstery resources	The fabric guide, tools checklist, and downloadable templates at Weloveupholstery reduce rework and material waste.

What do you need to reupholster an ottoman?
How do you choose the right approach before starting?
Which ottoman style do you have, and why does it matter?
Step-by-step: how to reupholster an ottoman from start to finish
How do you tuft an ottoman lid?
Reupholstering a storage ottoman: hinges, liners, and ventilation
Finishing touches: dust cover, trim, feet, and fabric care
Common problems and how to fix them
How much does it cost and how long does it take?
The no-sew staple-only recovery method
Weloveupholstery templates, checklists, and videos
Weloveupholstery makes your next project easier
Why learning to reupholster is worth your time
Sources

What do you need to reupholster an ottoman?

Getting your shopping done before you start saves a frustrating mid-project hardware run. Here is a complete list organized by category.

Tools

Heavy-duty electric staple gun (pneumatic or electric; manual guns tire your hand and skip staples)
Staples: 3/8-inch for standard fabric layers, 1/2-inch for thicker foam or multiple layers
Tack puller / staple remover (a flathead screwdriver works in a pinch, but a proper tack puller is faster)
Needle-nose pliers for pulling stubborn staples
Upholstery tufting needle (a long, curved needle, 6–10 inches) and waxed upholstery thread for tufted lids
Button-making kit (if making fabric-covered buttons)
Electric carving knife or long serrated bread knife for cutting foam cleanly, as Furniturity recommends
Scissors and rotary cutter with a cutting mat for fabric
Tape measure and chalk or fabric marker
Hot glue gun for trim and decorative nail strips
Heavy-duty sewing machine (only needed for sewn side panels or welting)

Materials and typical quantities (medium round ottoman, ~24-inch diameter)

This Old House specifies quantities of batting, fabric, foam thickness, and fabric liner for a round tufted storage ottoman, which can serve as a useful baseline for similar projects.

Fabric selection

Durability matters more than looks for a piece that gets daily foot traffic. Look for a rub count (Wyzenbeek or Martindale) of at least 15,000 for light use and 30,000+ for heavy use. Woven fabrics like linen-cotton blends and performance velvets hold up well; faux leather wipes clean easily and suits modern or kids’ spaces. Velvet reads luxurious but shows every footprint. For pattern matching, add a full pattern repeat to your yardage estimate.

The Weloveupholstery upholstery fabric guide breaks down fabric types by durability rating and use-case, which is worth checking before you buy. Local upholstery shops often carry remnants at a discount, and big-box fabric stores like JOANN carry a decent range of upholstery-weight options.

Pro Tip: Work with adhesives and spray fabric protectants in a well-ventilated space or outdoors. Contact cement and spray adhesives release fumes that build up quickly in a closed room.

How do you choose the right approach before starting?

The right method depends on what you find when you flip the ottoman over and press the seat. Run through this checklist before buying anything.

Inspect the frame: rock it gently and press the corners. Any flex, creak, or visible crack means the frame needs repair before reupholstery. A sound frame is a green light for any method.

Check the foam: press the center firmly. If it springs back, it is still usable. If it compresses and stays flat, or if you can feel the board beneath, replace it. Sagging foam is the most common reason a recovered ottoman still looks tired after new fabric goes on.

Look for springs or hardware: flip the ottoman and check for coil springs, webbing, or storage hinges. Springs add complexity and usually mean a full reupholstery job. Storage hinges need to be removed and reattached, which adds a step but is not difficult.

Consider pattern matching: if your new fabric has a large repeat, a no-sew staple recovery is harder to center cleanly. A sewn cover gives you more control.

Here is how the three approaches compare:

Approach	Best condition	Typical time	Relative cost	Longevity
Recover over existing	Sound frame, firm foam, no pattern	1–3 hours	Lowest (fabric only)	Shorter (adds bulk over time)
Full reupholstery	Worn foam, loose frame, pattern fabric	Half-day to full weekend	Moderate (foam + fabric)	Longest
No-sew staple recovery	Firm foam, simple fabric, cosmetic refresh	1–2 hours	Lowest	Moderate

Recovering over existing fabric is tempting because it is fast, but it adds a layer of bulk at the staple line that shows on thin-sided ottomans. For most ottomans with foam that is more than five years old, a full reupholstery produces a noticeably better result and lasts significantly longer.

Which ottoman style do you have, and why does it matter?

The method shifts depending on the shape and construction. Identifying your type before you start saves a lot of backtracking.

Square or rectangular ottoman: the most forgiving shape. Fabric wraps like a gift, corners are mitered (hospital fold), and the side panels are straight. The main skill is keeping tension even across all four sides.
Round ottoman: requires radial relief cuts along the side to prevent horizontal rippling. Staple in a compass-point pattern (top, bottom, left, right first, then fill in) and make small snips between staples to let the fabric lie flat. StitchDesk covers this technique in detail.
Tufted lid ottoman: needs a button-making kit, a tufting needle, waxed thread, and a planned grid. The tufting sequence runs from the center outward. Round tufted ottomans combine radial relief cuts at the perimeter with center-out tufting.
Storage/hinged ottoman: the lid is a separate piece. Remove the hinges first, reupholster the lid and base independently, then reattach. The interior needs a liner, and the hinge mounting points need reinforcement if the wood is soft.
Ottoman bench: longer and lower, often with exposed legs. The main challenge is keeping the fabric taut across a wider span without the staple line showing on the sides.
Upholstered pallet or cube ottoman: typically a simple box shape with a plywood top. Easiest to reupholster, often done in a single afternoon.

When to call a pro: if the frame has broken joints or cracked rails, if there are coil springs that have shifted or broken, or if the piece has significant sentimental or monetary value, a professional upholsterer is worth the cost. You can learn more about reupholstery techniques and case studies at Weloveupholstery to gauge complexity before deciding.

Step-by-step: how to reupholster an ottoman from start to finish

Quick sequence: strip old fabric → inspect and repair frame → replace foam → wrap batting → cut new fabric → staple in order → trim and finish → reattach feet and hardware.

Step 1: Remove the old fabric and preserve templates

Flip the ottoman upside down. Pull out staples with a tack puller, working methodically around the perimeter. Keep the old fabric pieces intact. Once removed, unpick any seams, press the pieces flat with an iron, and use them as cutting templates for the new fabric. Architectural Digest stresses this step: tracing the original pieces onto new fabric is the most reliable way to get fit and pattern alignment right. Mark each piece with chalk to indicate which side faces up and which direction the pattern runs.

Photograph the ottoman before and during disassembly. Note where each leg screws in, where hinges sit, and how the dust cover was stapled. These photos are your reference when reassembling.

Step 2: Inspect and repair the frame

With the fabric off, check every joint. Press and wiggle each corner. Loose joints can be re-glued with wood glue and clamped overnight. Fill any screw holes that have stripped out with a wooden toothpick and wood glue before re-driving screws. A solid frame is the foundation everything else depends on.

Step 3: Cut and attach new foam

Trace the top panel shape onto the foam using the old fabric template or by setting the ottoman top directly on the foam and tracing around it. Cut with an electric carving knife using long, smooth strokes, or use a serrated bread knife. Avoid sawing back and forth, which compresses and tears the foam unevenly. Attach the foam to the top board with spray adhesive, pressing firmly and letting it tack for 60 seconds before setting down.

Step 4: Wrap with batting

Cut batting to extend about 2 inches past the foam edge on all sides. Wrap it over the foam and pull it taut to the underside of the board, stapling every 3–4 inches. Batting rounds the hard foam edge and gives the finished piece a softer, more upholstered look. Furniturity’s guide recommends wrapping the batting snugly before any fabric goes on, which prevents lumps under the finished surface.

Step 5: Cut the new fabric

Use your pressed templates to cut the top panel and side panels, adding a 2-inch seam allowance on all edges for stapling. For a round ottoman, cut the top circle with the full allowance. For the side panel, cut a long strip that wraps the full circumference with a 2-inch overlap. Center any pattern on the top panel before cutting.

Pro Tip: Lay your fabric face-down on a clean floor and place the template on top. Trace with chalk and cut just outside the line. Cutting slightly generous is always recoverable; cutting short is not.

Step 6: Staple the fabric

For a round ottoman, place the top panel centered over the foam and batting. Pull the fabric to the underside and place your first staple at 12 o’clock, then 6 o’clock, then 9 o’clock, then 3 o’clock. Work around the circle in small increments, pulling with consistent tension and making a small radial relief cut between each staple to let the fabric fold flat without rippling. This compass-point anchoring method prevents the fabric from pulling off-center.

For a square ottoman, staple the center of each side first (the same compass-point logic), then work toward the corners. At corners, fold the fabric into a neat hospital fold: pull the corner straight down, fold one side flat, then fold the other side over it. Trim excess bulk before stapling.

Step 7: Attach side panels (if sewn)

For a sewn cover, sew the side panel into a ring with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, then sew or pin it to the top circle. Slip the cover over the ottoman and pull it taut to the underside, stapling as above. This method gives a cleaner finish on the side seam than a staple-only wrap.

Step 8: Trim and finish

Trim excess fabric close to the staple line with scissors. Fold the raw edge under by about 1/2 inch and staple again for a clean finish, or cover the staple line with decorative welt or gimp trim using hot glue. Reattach feet and any hardware. Staple a dust cover to the underside to protect the staple work and give the bottom a finished look.

How do you tuft an ottoman lid?

Tufting requires planning before a single needle goes in. The grid determines everything: button spacing, fabric pull, and the final visual pattern.

Grid math: for a round ottoman, start at the center and work outward in concentric rings. A common spacing is 3–4 inches between buttons. For a square lid, divide the top into a grid of equal squares, marking each button point with chalk or a fabric pin.

Button-making and tools

Use a button-making kit (Dritz makes a widely available one) to cover buttons in your upholstery fabric. Cut small circles of fabric, press them into the kit mold, and snap the back on. You will also need a 6–10 inch tufting needle threaded with waxed upholstery thread, and a foam awl or skewer to pre-punch holes through the foam at each grid point.

Tufting sequence

Mark all button points on the fabric and foam with chalk.
Push the tufting needle through the fabric and foam at the center point, pulling the thread through to the underside.
Thread the button onto the needle from the top, then push the needle back through the same hole.
On the underside, pull the thread taut and secure it with a zigzag staple pattern. This Old House recommends this zigzag method for durability.
Work outward from the center, completing one button at a time. As you pull each button down, gather the fabric between buttons into neat pleats that all run in the same direction.
Once all buttons are set, check depth consistency from above. Adjust any that sit shallower by re-pulling the thread and re-stapling.

Pro Tip: Before tufting the real piece, practice pulling a button through a scrap of foam and fabric. The tension required is more than most beginners expect, and the first attempt almost always produces an uneven depth.

Troubleshooting tufting problems

Loose button: the thread has slipped from the staple. Re-pull from the underside and add a second staple crossing the first.
Pulled foam: the awl hole was too small. Enlarge it slightly with a skewer before re-threading.
Uneven depths: buttons were pulled at different tensions. Standardize by pulling until the button just disappears into the foam surface, not deeper.
Fabric puckering between buttons: pleats are not gathered consistently. Unpick and re-gather so all pleats fold in the same rotational direction.

For round tufted lids, combine the radial relief cuts at the perimeter (to handle the circular edge) with the center-out tufting sequence described above.

Reupholstering a storage ottoman: hinges, liners, and ventilation

Storage ottomans are two separate upholstery jobs: the lid and the base. Work on them independently, then reassemble.

Remove hinge hardware carefully. Use the correct screwdriver size to avoid stripping the heads. Place all screws in a labeled bag. Photograph the hinge position before removal so you know exactly where to re-mount.
Inspect the hinge mounting area. If the wood around the screw holes is soft or crumbling, cut a small plywood patch (1/4-inch ply works well), glue it over the damaged area, and clamp overnight. Pre-drill new pilot holes through the patch before reattaching hinges.
Reupholster the lid following the standard workflow above, but leave a 1-inch margin of bare wood along the hinge edge so the hinge plate sits flush against wood, not fabric.
Line the interior. Measure the inside walls and base of the storage box. Cut a liner fabric (a medium-weight cotton or a thin felt works well) to fit each panel. Staple or hot-glue the liner panels in place, starting with the base, then the four walls. Overlap corners neatly and trim flush. For long-term protection of stored items, a thin plastic sheeting layer beneath the fabric liner prevents moisture transfer.
Reattach hinges. Drive screws into the pre-drilled pilot holes. Do not overtighten; hinge torque on a fabric-covered lid can pull the screw through if the wood is thin. Use screws no longer than the combined thickness of the wood and plywood patch to avoid puncturing the upholstery layers from beneath.
Ventilation. Enclosed ottomans trap odors, especially if storing blankets or clothing. A small, discreet vent cut into the back panel and covered with a breathable mesh liner solves this without affecting the exterior look. Alternatively, a breathable cotton liner (rather than plastic sheeting) allows passive air exchange.

Finishing touches: dust cover, trim, feet, and fabric care

The underside and the edges are where a DIY job either looks professional or gives itself away.

Dust cover

Cut a piece of black cambric or muslin slightly smaller than the ottoman’s footprint. Fold the edges under by about 1/2 inch on all sides, press with an iron, and staple it over the underside, covering all the raw fabric edges and staple work. Start at the center of each side and work outward. A neat dust cover protects the staple work from snagging on flooring and gives the piece a finished look from every angle.

Welt and trim

Welt (also called piping or cording) gives the seam between the top and side panels a sharp, tailored edge. You can buy pre-made welt in a matching or contrasting color, or make your own by wrapping cording in a bias-cut strip of your fabric and sewing it closed. Hot-glue or staple the welt along the seam line, pressing firmly as you go. Stampington’s GreenCraft content offers additional decorative trim ideas for finishing details. Decorative nail trim (a strip of connected upholstery tacks) is a faster alternative that suits traditional or industrial styles.

Feet

Screw-in feet thread directly into existing threaded inserts in the base. If the inserts are stripped, fill the hole with a wooden dowel and wood glue, let it cure fully, then re-drill a pilot hole and drive the screw-in foot in. Bolt-plate feet attach with a flat plate and bolts through the base board, which is more secure for heavy ottomans. If you want to update the look, swapping the feet is one of the easiest ways to shift the style from traditional to mid-century or contemporary without changing the fabric.

Fabric care after reupholstery

Woven fabrics: vacuum weekly with an upholstery attachment; spot-clean with a mild soap solution and blot dry.
Velvet: brush with a soft-bristle brush in the direction of the pile; avoid rubbing, which crushes the nap permanently.
Faux leather: wipe with a damp cloth; condition every few months with a vinyl conditioner.
A fabric protectant spray (Scotchgard or similar) applied immediately after finishing adds a barrier against spills and staining. For detailed stain-removal guidance by fabric type, Purecise Clean’s stain removal guide covers most common household stains.

Common problems and how to fix them

Rippling on a round ottoman

Horizontal ripples on the side mean the fabric has nowhere to go as it wraps the curve. The fix is radial relief cuts: small snips made perpendicular to the staple line, spaced every inch or so around the circumference. Each cut releases tension in that section, letting the fabric lie flat. StitchDesk identifies this as the standard technique for round pieces.

Bulk at square corners

Too much fabric folded into a corner creates a lumpy, thick wad. Trim the corner fabric diagonally before folding, leaving just enough to overlap cleanly. The hospital fold (pull straight down, fold one side flat, fold the second side over it) keeps the corner sharp.

Pattern misalignment

If the pattern drifts off-center, the fabric was not anchored at the center before stapling began. Always find the center of the top panel and the center of the fabric repeat, align them, and place a single staple at the center of each side before pulling toward the corners.

Staples not holding

Thin or soft wood frames sometimes do not grip staples well. Add a backing strip of thin plywood or a hardboard strip along the staple line to give the staples more material to bite into. Alternatively, use longer staples (1/2-inch instead of 3/8-inch) and angle them slightly.

Safety reminders

Wear safety glasses when operating a pneumatic staple gun; staples can ricochet off hard surfaces. Keep fingers well clear of the staple gun nose. When cutting foam with an electric carving knife, keep the blade moving in a forward direction and away from your body. Work with adhesives near an open window or outdoors.

Pro Tip: Before stapling the final fabric layer, do a dry run: drape the fabric over the ottoman, pull it to the underside, and check pattern alignment and tension from every angle. Adjust before a single staple goes in. Pulling staples out of fabric leaves visible holes.

How much does it cost and how long does it take?

Time estimates

Simple recover (no-sew, firm foam): 1–3 hours for a standard square or round ottoman
Full reupholstery, no tufting: half a day to a full day, consistent with the one-day workflow Architectural Digest documents for a circular ottoman
Full reupholstery with tufting: a full weekend, sometimes two sessions if the grid needs adjustment
Storage ottoman (full reupholstery + liner + hinge reattachment): one to two days

Professional upholsterers typically spend 12–20 hours on complex ottoman jobs. A beginner will take longer on the first attempt, but the second project moves noticeably faster.

Material cost ranges

A Little Delightful’s 8-step guide includes a project budget breakdown showing that DIY material costs are substantially lower than professional labor rates, which typically add $150–$400 or more on top of materials for a standard ottoman.

Tool investment

A decent electric staple gun runs a moderate price and can be cost-effective if you plan multiple projects. A tufting needle costs under $10. If you only have one ottoman to do, borrowing a staple gun from a neighbor or renting one from a hardware store is a reasonable option. A heavy-duty sewing machine is worth buying only if you plan to tackle multiple upholstery projects; for a single ottoman, a sewn cover can often be done at a local alterations shop for a small fee.

The no-sew staple-only recovery method

A no-sew recovery works well for most ottomans with firm foam and a simple fabric. It is the right choice when you want a cosmetic refresh in an afternoon, not a structural restoration.

Step-by-step no-sew recovery

Strip the old fabric down to the foam or batting layer. If the foam is still firm, leave it in place. If it is soft, replace it before proceeding.
Center the new fabric face-up over the ottoman top. Make sure any pattern is centered and the grain runs straight.
Place the first four staples at the compass points (top, bottom, left, right), pulling the fabric firmly to the underside each time.
Work around the perimeter in small increments, alternating sides to keep tension even. For a round ottoman, make small radial relief cuts between staples as you go.
Pleat corners or curves neatly. On square ottomans, fold a hospital corner. On round ottomans, gather small, even pleats and staple each one flat.
Trim excess fabric close to the staple line and staple a dust cover over the underside.
Add decorative nail trim along the lower edge of the side panel if you want to cover the staple line without sewing welt.

When no-sew works and when it does not

Works well for: solid-color fabrics, simple geometric patterns, ottomans with a straight or gently curved profile, quick seasonal refreshes
Not ideal for: large pattern repeats that need precise centering, tufted lids, replacing deteriorated internal padding, or pieces where the side seam will be closely examined

The Lia Griffith tutorial demonstrates this photo-driven approach clearly and also shows how swapping the legs at the same time gives the piece an entirely new look with minimal extra effort.

Durability caveat

A staple-only recovery without sewn seams will eventually show stress at the staple line, especially on heavily used ottomans. Expect to redo it in two to four years under daily use, versus five or more years for a properly sewn and stapled full reupholstery.

Weloveupholstery templates, checklists, and videos

Weloveupholstery provides a set of practical assets designed to make the project go smoother from the first measurement to the final staple.

Cutting templates: printable round and square top templates in common ottoman sizes, ready to trace directly onto foam or fabric
Step checklist: a one-page project checklist covering every stage from disassembly through finishing, formatted to print and check off as you work
Tufting grid printable: a scaled grid you can overlay on your ottoman top to plan button spacing before marking the foam
Tools checklist: a printable list of every tool mentioned in this guide, with notes on which to buy versus borrow, available at the DIY tools checklist page

Short video clips on the site walk through the compass-point stapling sequence and the tufting needle technique, which are the two steps beginners most often get wrong from written instructions alone. Watching the tension and hand position in a short clip is worth more than re-reading the text three times.

Pro Tip: Print the step checklist and tape it to your work surface before you start. Checking off each step as you complete it prevents the most common beginner mistake: skipping the batting wrap or forgetting to photograph hardware before disassembly.

The DIY guides archive at Weloveupholstery also covers chair reupholstery, sofa cushion work, and materials guides that build on the skills you develop here. If you want to go further after your first ottoman, the chair reupholstery guide covers the same stapling and foam techniques applied to a more complex shape.

Weloveupholstery makes your next project easier

Knowing the steps is one thing. Having the right fabric, the right foam, and a clear guide open on your workbench is what actually gets the project finished.

Weloveupholstery cuts through the guesswork on materials selection with a detailed upholstery fabric guide that matches fabric types to durability ratings, use-cases, and budget ranges. You get the same practical depth on foam, batting, adhesives, and fasteners through the materials and supplies section, which is organized the way a working DIYer thinks: by project stage, not by product category. Download the free tools checklist, pull up the step-by-step guide that matches your ottoman type, and you have everything you need to start this weekend. Browse the full library of DIY guides to find the right starting point for your project.

Why learning to reupholster is worth your time

Reupholstering an ottoman is not just about saving money, though the savings are real. A professional reupholstery job on a standard ottoman can cost more than the piece is worth to replace. Doing it yourself means you control the fabric, the finish, and the result, and you end up with something that fits your space exactly rather than whatever the store had in stock.

There is also a sustainability argument that rarely gets made plainly: a well-built ottoman frame lasts decades. The fabric does not. Throwing out a structurally sound piece because the fabric is worn is wasteful in a way that a few hours of DIY work can prevent entirely. Every ottoman you reupholster is one less piece in a landfill.

The skill compounds, too. The stapling sequence, the foam work, the template method — all of it transfers directly to chairs, benches, headboards, and sofas. Start with a simple square ottoman, get the compass-point stapling right, and the next project takes half the time. Weloveupholstery’s guides are built around that progression, from a first ottoman to more complex pieces, with downloadable checklists that keep you from having to hold the whole process in your head at once. Download the step checklist, pick a small project, and start there.